I hopped off my bus in the afternoon and was greeted by a van driver who would take me onward to my accommodation that was close to an hour outside of town. (Futabus luckily provided free transfers, so that was a super convenient perk!) When I arrived at Hương Tràm Homestay, I was guided to a beautiful room overlooking the rice paddies that cost me 230,000VND a night (~$10). The homestay also had a super cute little outdoor seating area with swings and benches that surveyed the fields and a lotus pond.
Day 6 (june 13)
Well… Friday the 13th. I should’ve known I was going to be thrown some curveballs, but I don’t think I could have ever predicted the following course of events.
The day started out like any other. I woke up to the sight of lush, green rice paddies and headed out on my bike. I was running low on cash because the ATMs had given me problems in Can Tho, so I decided to start there.
At the second ATM, I was informed by the machine that my card was locked, and sure enough, my app informed me of as much when I logged in. Yet, I was not allowed to unlock it in the app… make it make sense.
I FaceTimed my mom to have her contact TD because I do not have a phone plan that includes calling here (and especially not international calling). I stayed on the line while she dialed them from the house phone (this is why house phones are important, kids!) I communicated through her to them, but they could not verify my identity because it is all based on voice, even though I offered to answer any security question they could possibly throw at me. We hung up after getting no assistance from the first representative and decided to try again with a new person.
Robbin once again dialed TD, but this time, I spoke directly through her cell phone into the house phone receiver and pretended that it was a direct call. They still could not unlock my card because I could not give them the text code verification number (because I have a different number because I am in Vietnam), but the second representative was much more helpful and provided me an exact message to send in the app that would get it unlocked.
During this debacle, I learned that my card had been shut down over a $1.56 Grab ride (Asian Uber)… AND a nice soldier had barged into the booth mid-call to flick a GIANT cockroach off of my back. He spoke no English, so I was very confused by his gestures for me to turn around until the bug went flying across the ATM floor.
While I waited to find out if my card would be unlocked, I attempted to visit Tra Su Bird Sanctuary. I arrived and paid for parking, only to realize I did not have enough cash left to enter the premises. I drove the 15 minutes back to town and decided to calm my soul by visiting a temple.
Chùa Vật Tư
While at the temple, my mom called me to check in on my card status because she was getting ready or bed and wanted to make sure it was sorted before she did (what a woman). Sure enough, almost two hours after the whole debacle began, my card was finally unlocked.
I raced back to the ATM to make sure it wasn’t a fluke, and could’ve cried at the sight of 5 million Vietnamese dong. Even the soldiers on guard at whatever the important building that was right next door was cheered for me when the money came out. This would be the last win of the day (not really, but ya know).
Núi Sam (Sam Mountain)
I drove the 40ish minutes to the base of Sam Mountain. While it is possible to drive to the summit, I wanted the experience of hiking up. I went up the Eastern side, which consisted of hundreds of stairs set into the side of the mountain that wound through people’s “living rooms”, personal altars, and food stands.
There were some solid viewpoints along the way up that made my decision worth it. I was also the only person on the “trail,” so I enjoyed the tranquility that I knew would vanish when I reached the top. (Most people ride up or take the cable car.)
Upon reaching the top, I was greeted by some beautiful temples and lots of color…
And obviously can’t forget about the views!
It was on the way down that things started to fall apart…
Chùa Long Sơn
First, I stopped by this insanely beautiful and quiet temple. It was probably one of my all time favorites I have ever been to, and I’ve been to A LOT of temples at this point.
It started pouring towards the tail end of my temple visit, but I knew I didn’t have much choice besides to tough it out and continue the trek down the western side of the mountain. I don’t mind the rain as much here because I am perpetually wet from the humidity anyways, and it is a nice cool off in the high heat/humidity climate.
Trek back to my bike
I made good time coming down the mountain because the road was steep, and I let my momentum carry me.
In keeping with the Friday the 13th vibes that had started me out that morning, I got off the mountain absolutely soaked, but the rain had started to lighten. I noticed a military cemetery off to my left with a memorial altar of sorts, so I decided to give it a look. On my way up the steps to the altar, a man decided to undress. Yes, that’s right, undress.
The Incident.
In the blink of an eye, he not only had his tee shirt completely off, but his genitalia out in his hand while he beckoned for me to come to him. Mmmmm let me think… that is going to be a hard no from me, dog. I whipped around and took off down the steps totally astounded that this man had just propositioned me by taking out his penis on a MILITARY MEMORIAL ALTAR at a MILITARY CEMETERY of all places.
I tried to inform an old woman on the street right outside the main gate, but her sole interest was trying to sell me lottery tickets. I continued down the street, deciding there wasn’t much I could do besides write a Google Maps review to ensure that others didn’t have the same bizarre, and slightly traumatizing experience that I did.
About 10 minutes down the road, I found myself wandering around a much more tourist-laden temple and decided to mention it to the security guards posted out front in case they cared to warn people. I Google Translated “I don’t know if you care, but a man just showed me his penis.” After the first guard read it, he beckoned for the second, who then called over a third. I think they were unsure if what the phone said was in fact what I was trying to say. They all read it and stared at me before asking me if I was traveling alone. Not where it occurred or if I was okay, but if I was alone (translated, of course. This whole conversation was translated.) Off to a great start, lads.
When I replied yes, they followed up by asking why I wasn’t with my family. I informed them I was 26 and old enough that I need not travel with family, to which the main communicator responded that he was 35. Great, super helpful, glad we’re comparing ages, but can we get back to the perv?
They then asked me where it occurred, and when I pointed to the military cemetery on the map, informed me, and I quote, “don’t go there.” Noooooo… really??? I thought I’d go back and see if my naked friend was looking for sex or just a lil handjob. C’mon guys, is that seriously the best you can do? It makes me wonder if this is a common occurrence and the locals just know to stay away from Pervy Timmy (that’s his name now, sorry Timmys everywhere) at the military cemetery.
I nodded that I wouldn’t go back (obviously), and they finally asked me if I wanted them to notify the police. I declined the offer because I had a feeling the conversation would be quite similar in nature with me getting blamed for being alone and going the wrong places, and I knew nothing would be done about it at the end of the day.
After that impeccable experience that made me seriously question all of Vietnam, even though everyone else I had met thus far had been trustworthy and incredibly kind (and clothed), I decided to call it a day and head back to my guesthouse.
The ride home
I got caught in a wicked pissah on the way home—always fun when you can barely see the road through the sheets of rain and your very wet glasses. In the middle of my journey, I was talking to myself (of course), and a cockroach flew into my mouth. I think this was truly the straw that broke the camel’s back, and I decided the day was over even though it was not yet noon.
That said, on my ride home, I stopped for nuoc mia (sugarcane juice) at a little stall, and the woman offered me two Vietnamese cupcakes (more like muffins) that turned out to be coconut flavored. She was so kind and helped to lift my spirits a little after the fiasco that was my morning
Also on my ride home, I was famished and stopped at a little “restaurant” (a place with a cart where they prepare the food and some plastic stools and tables to eat at). While I was there, I met the owner’s niece who spoke almost perfect English. She was around my age and newly married to an American who lives in Louisville! They were working on getting her papers in order with the hopes that she could join him in the next year. She was so lovely and fun to get to know, so we wound up chatting for almost an hour! She currently tutors students in English and loves teaching, so I suggested that she may be able to work as a para or TA in the States without an official teaching certification. She had no idea those were possibilities with just a bachelor’s degree and had been under the impression that she would have to give up her teaching passion for the time being to work at a nail salon. We finally parted ways, but hopefully in the future, we’ll cross paths again; and like she said, all I need to do is ask around Louisville about the only Vietnamese person in the city!
A Synopsis of my Friday the 13th
If I wasn’t superstitious before, I definitely am now.
Day 7 (June 14)
I woke up early to run feeling refreshed from the previous day after a good night’s sleep. I decided to head down the little roadway adjacent to my homestay that would take me to Tra Su Bird Sanctuary. Driving it the day before, I had marveled at the tranquility and beauty of the tree-lined lane with the rice paddies on either side.
The only other folks I saw while I ran the dirt path were workers in the fields and a lone motorbiker. The quiet is rare, given that the main roads are hustling and bustling before the sun is fully up. I am shocked every time I leave my accommodation before 5:30am; I expect to emerge onto a quiet street, and I am instead greeted by honks, people eating at cafes, and vendors’ stalls in full swing.
I soaked up the peacefulness of the sunrise, a rarity here, from deep amid the rice paddies and only returned to the main roads when it was time to head back to my homestay.
Rừng Tràm Trà Sư (Tra Su Cajuput Forest)
A cajuput is a kind of tree that grows extensively in the Mekong Delta area of Vietnam. It is similar to a eucalyptus in that it is frequently used in essential oils, but it also serves as an important part of the Delta’s ecosystem. It grows in large swaths of forests that provide a vital ecosystem while helping with flood control—which is particularly important during the rainy season.
I returned to the forest/bird sanctuary, luckily with enough cash on hand this time. I opted to take a rowboat through the wilderness, rather than a motorboat, because I wanted to enjoy the nature and be able to spot creatures without frightening them off. If I had enough time, I would have rented a bicycle to cycle through the forested paths like the ones above, but due to a time crunch, I opted to walk a little ways and then turn around. (Definitely recommend a bike if any of you lot venture over here for whatever reason. The forest looked so stunning and utterly peaceful, I wish I had had a little more time!)
The boat tour was lovely, but I wish my guide had spoken just a tad more English so that I could have learned the names of some of the birds and plants that we saw. That being said, I did my best to learn them in Vietnamese so that I could try to figure out their English names later on. It didn’t work super well, but I know that I saw Asian openbills (a kind of stork), little cormorants, and a white-breasted water hen, among many other storks, herons, and cormorants. I also saw a grey-headed swamp hen, which was beautiful, but I wasn’t able to capture the best photo. The first time I have seriously regretted not packing my telephoto lens.
The boat ride was absolutely mind-blowing, and I still am not over just how many birds there were in every single tree. It was incredible to witness both visually and aurally, and I’m still in awe thinking about it.
The boat ride entailed almost 30 minutes of gliding through the small waterways and admiring the greenery. I apologize for all the photos, but I was obsessed with how lush it was.
After the ride, I wandered down a boardwalk that took me across some waterways and into the woods. I passed by some huts on the way that contained images of all the flora and fauna that can be found in the forest.
Motorbike Adventure
I left the forest and decided to take my bike on the open road.
Despite the fact that the day before, a man had propositioned me with his penis, I still had faith in humanity and thus trusted an older guy who saw me taking pictures with my camera and beckoned for me to follow him on my bike. He led me a short ways down a dirt path off the main road to a stunning landscape view and gestured for me to photograph. He even called out to some local fishermen who were wrapping up for the day to pose for the photo. I thanked him profusely in my broken Vietnamese before he pulled away and then spent a long while taking in the beauty of the area.
I then continued on my merry way, determined to make it to Ta Pa, which I had heard was spectacular from the local girl I had met the day prior.
Núi Tà Pạ
Ta Pa is a mountain with sweeping views of rice paddy fields that sit nestled between Ta Pa and neighboring Núi Cô Tô. There are also two beautiful turquoise lakes perched atop Ta Pa that I thought were more impressive than the view.
I somehow timed my Ta Pa visit perfectly because I had just enough time to explore before it started raining. I got back to my motorbike and had my poncho on before the skies opened up, saving me from being completely drenched on my journey home.
Because of the weather and my time crunch to make my bus, I made a beeline for my homestay, with only a single photo from the 40 minute ride back.
Good Eats
When I got back, I had a bit of time before my bus was going to be picking me up, so I meandered down the street at the recommendation of the owner of the homestay. She suggested I try a thốt nốt (roughly pronounced tau(t) now), which turned out to be a drink made from the toddy of a sugar palm tree. It was a local speciality that cannot be found elsewhere in Vietnam, as the sugar palm is exclusive to the Mekong Delta.
It was refreshing and delicious, although I needed some food of substance before mt trip, so I ordered com chay (vegetarian rice) as well.
I hopped an afternoon bus to Ben Tre and arrived in town a little after 8pm. I then had to catch a 20 minute Grab bike (motorbike Uber) to the ferry dock (aka a concrete slab at the end of a dead end), where I waited in the dark until 9pm for a ferry to transport me across Hàm Luông River to the little island I would be staying on. The ferry cost 2,000VND for just a person (a solid 7.5¢) and 6,000VND for a person on a motorbike. On the other side, I was grateful I had a head lamp because I was once again greeted with darkness on my 4 minute walk to HƯNG THÀNH HOME.
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